Clothing--Rank and Fabric Colors

LOWER RANK

Undyed Wool. Cream, full range of browns, gray. Combinations of these in weaves. Probably unbleached Linen. Faded middle-rank dyes
Saxon: Þeow, Gebur
Viking: Þrall/Ambatt, Frjals /Gjafar
Norman: Serfs, Villeins

MIDDLE RANK

Weld—Yellow, yellowy green: Moss green.
Wild Madder—Salmony pink, Orange/brown, Bleached Linen. For richer members of middle rank, more intense colors of madder from cultivated plants
Woad—Blue
Combinations of the above , e.g. leaf green, bottle green.
Saxon: Kotsetla, Geneat
Viking: Bondi/Karl
Norman: Cottars, Freeholders

HIGH RANKING

All of the above with silk trimming, wimples and bonnets.
Small amounts of kermes red (cardinal red)
Saxon: Þegn/Priest, Eolderman/ Scirgerufa, Eorl
Viking: Odalsbondi/ Hauld, Landsmen/ Gaethingar/ Styraesmen, Jarl
Norman: Vavasseur/ Sergens, Miles/Priest, Comes

HIGH CLERGY/ ROYALTY

All of the above. Shellfish purple. Silk garments
Saxon: Atheling/Bishop, King
Viking: N/A before conversion, King
Norman: Dux/Bishop, King

SOURCES

Ewing, Þor. Viking Costume. 2006.
Owen-Crocker, Gail. Dress in Anglo-Saxon England, Second Edition. 2004.
“Regia Anglorum—Basic Clothing Guide: Materials - What to Use and What to Avoid,” http://www.regia.org/members/basclot7.htm

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